The collection’s first 36 looks of darted blazers and crystal covered dresses hammered home the erotic inspiration and its real world implications.
Helmut Newton was also on the moodboard, his sparse, evocative women feeling in step with these Sportmax vixens.īut at some point, there is simply too much sex. This severe silhouette, with its padded shoulders and clean lines, evoked something Margelaian-an idea hammered home with the large envelope bags. Many looks were backless or sideless, suspended or held together with a prayer and a tiny plastic band. In a dizzyingly pink room with pink lights and pink carpet, the brand presented a collection hinged on circular draping, cut-outs, and clear string. The brand is ready for a new life, and it’s wise in our Hot Girl Moment that its new energy will be that of minimal body con. Opening picture: self-portrait of Helmut Newton at Studio Yva, Berlin 1936.You know you’re in for something delectable when the show notes say the season’s muse is a “she demon.” For Sportmax, now operating as a design studio sans head, the idea of something directionally sexy makes sense.
I don’t think there is anything more important than freedom of expression, don’t you agree? And now those images are part of photography history. We need to really be careful not to censor art. His images backed you to the wall, forcing you to look at the unpleasant aspects of society that we want to get rid of. These days, many of Helmut’s photos would not be published. We live in much more prudish times compared to the 1970s and 1980s when, fresh off the sexual revolution, nudity was no longer taboo. What do you think? In a fax to Anna Wintour, Newton once wrote – quoting Kaiser Wilhelm II – “the more enemies, the more honour” He loved to provoke, he loved to see the reactions of readers. The film is a uniquely balanced portrait of all of the facets of a complex man and a gifted artist, without criticism or judgment, giving the viewer the burden and honour of connecting the dots, as much as they seem to go in opposite directions.Īt one point, June talks about how she asked her husband if he realized how profoundly subversive his work was – if this was on purpose or if he was just playing the part of the naughy boy. Newton says that the worst words that can be used to describe his work are “art” and “tasteful,” but in the documentary, we see some of the greatest works of art in recent photography history being created. In the film, he confidently claims that he was only concerned with what is on the outside – face, chest, legs – but then we see him produce some of the sharpest portraits of power and society in the last century. Helmut talks about escaping from Nazi Berlin, “where you could end up in a concentration camp for crossing against a red light,” but we also learn that one of his biggest aesthetic influences was Leni Riefenstahl, who made propaganda films for the Reich. In von Boehm’s film, we see Susan Sontag accuse Newton of producing misogynist images, but all of his muses and models talk about how empowered they felt posing nude for him.
HELMUT NEWTON VOGUE FULL
It definitely reflects the story of his life.” It is absolutely no surprise that photos by this Jewish boy from Berlin – who grew up with the great social freedoms of the Weimar Republic and came of age in the dark Hitler years – are so full of contradictions: disturbing and seductive, kitsch and ultra-sophisticated, erotic and repulsive. “He was an unlikely combination of Berlin ‘naughty boy’, gentleman, provocateur, anarchist, and, of course, an incredible artist. It will soon be released in Italy, with distribution by Movies Inspired (the date has yet to be confirmed due to the coronavirus emergency). Where were they from? What were they doing? He was not only a voyeur in the strict sense of the word but also a great observer of humanity,” says Gero von Boehm, director of the documentary Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful, which was previewed at the Tribeca Film Festival in April. “Every time Helmut and I were sitting in a café, we’d watch people and make up stories about them.
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